CUBA 2014: What were you doing in Cuba?

                We were studying the Cuban educational system at the Centro de Estudianos Martianos. That is not the study of Martians, it is the study of the Cuban National Hero and Educator José Martí. José Martí, we learned, introduced the concept of popular education to the Cuban people. His philosophy on experiential learning, critical pedagogy and lifelong learning were adopted by Fidel Castro and disseminated broadly during and after the Cuban Revolution. Martí’s work was well ahead of his time, as he had the radical idea back in the late 19^th century, that women and people of all nationalities and ethnicities should have equal access to public education.

                 Memorial to José Martí with flowers for the May 19th celebration of his life.

                In the Centro, the words of one person will forever speak to my heart. Here are some translated excerpts and I only hope I do justice to the intended meanings:

“I used to live with the rhythm of my society and fight against the enemy – a difficult vision and difficult life that many have not resisted.” 

                “This is an idea that I had all these years:

                We thought at the beginning and were convinced that we would have new growth – but it is very difficult. It is easier to have political power. When I was young, I saw [political power] as though it were gold – this is just foolishness. To think that it is easy to change economic structures to create a new society for people who have different ideas. Those people [foolish people] think that. How can they be reached? The problem is in education. If it does not change, then you cannot change society. The revolution will last forever. Any [outside] country cannot destroy the revolution. It persists, it destroys from the inside. The fundamental idea of the revolution [should be] education… we need more educational tools to avoid reproducing a system without freedom.”

Statue at the CEM. José Martí, they say, was like a tree. Although he was diminutive in size, as soon as he started talking in front of his classes, he would grow and grow and fill the room. 

                We also study the way that career development and career training is systematized in Cuba. For example, there is a specific branch of the educational system devoted to adult learners who are changing careers or are interested in progressing in their career. They attend an evening university which is named “Workers and Peasants Faculty,” an interesting name which does not convey university status in my mind. Usually a student will further the career path that he or she is already taking (based on an elaborate system of testing and tracking during primary and secondary schooling). With the permission of their boss, though, some students are able to actually switch careers, provided that they meet the academic requirements of the new career choice. 

                One big problem in Cuba is the movement of so many people from their trained careers into tourism. Because tourism is the primary source of economic flow into the country, the government provides an incentive for working in the tourism industry: $25 per month. Therefore, many skilled workers and academics move into the tourism industry (driving taxis, hosting at hotels and bars, working as tour guides or security personnel, etc.), abandoning jobs which are needed for a functioning society. Additionally, by becoming part of the tourism industry, individuals have direct access to tips, which bring in more than their base salary and which they would not be able survive without receiving.     

      

                According to one of our guides, doctors are the primary export of Cuba. Well educated and trained doctors are sent abroad to practice medicine, since the doctors are Cuban nationals, a large part of their income is given to the government. A doctor in Cuba makes about $40 per month. Healthcare is free for everyone. By many accounts, the medical system is very advanced and very good; however, medicine and supplies are very difficult to obtain due to the blockade. Because of this, local remedies and traditional medicine are common. 

                                 The José Martí Museum and memorial at the Plaza de la Revolucíon

                Everywhere I went, I learned. From the Center to the Museums and even during downtime from the local people, I was like a kid in a candy shop of knowledge. I am having a hard time imagining a moment when I was not learning something or seeing something that caused me to think in a new way or to understand people in a way that I had not understood them before. Granted, I can learn anywhere. I also love people. And, I have a desire to work in developing countries where political issues are sticky and toilets are rare, if they exist at all. So, my predisposition set me up for a great learning experience. 

                If I had all the time in the world, I would photo-document the locations of all the José Martí memorials in Cuba and create a "Where's Waldo?" style game with them using Google Earth. Perhaps in the next life...

CUBA 2014: Culture Shock? A pleasant surprise, really.

                I fit in well with the people that I met in Cuba. Whether this is something that would last over time, or whether I was just lucky, or perhaps it was a façade because I was a “rich tourist,” I do not know. But I met the kindest and warmest people and had a wonderful time. This was partly because I went out of my way to interact with locals and ask questions. The people that I met seemed to really enjoy talking about their lives and sharing with me places to go and do which are off the beaten path. I even had a number of them invite me to come back, offer to find me a Casa Particular (which is local housing for foreigners rather than a hotel), etc. I was impressed by the hospitality. Perhaps if you live in the Mid-Atlantic, you will understand why I found this so enchanting; compared to us, the Cuban people are so very friendly and kind. There are plenty of good people here, but in terms of laying out the welcome mat, Cubans show us that we have a long way to go. 

                          Being a tourist in Habana Vieja with a local cover model from Nat Geo

                The Cuban style of dress is very similar to trends in the United States. The young men and women could have stepped out of any US university campus or mall. Additionally, there is an abundance of musical talent, and this is apparent in many of the local restaurants, street corners, discotecas, clubs, bars, even the hotel lobby. To make extra money (and especially in the lucrative tourist peso, which is worth 24 national pesos), people of all ages will use their talents to market CD’s, artwork, crafts, etc. You might pay $10 or $15 for an original painting (oil, acrylic, you name it), which for the locals is a month of wages. The further from the tourist path you are, the more likely this money will circulate among the local population rather than getting siphoned into the socialist bureaucracy. So I felt good about buying the few things I did buy for my kids and family and actually wished I could have bought more. If you go to Cuba, leave room in your suitcase for music, books, paintings, carvings, and instruments – handmade wares that are pretty much a steal if you compare them to prices back home. They might stop you in customs on the Cuban side if you buy too many, though, because they think you are reselling them. So, be reasonable and not extravagant. 

                A note to the future traveler on culture:

To be careful of – the dual economy means that you are much richer, freer, more privileged and more powerful than anyone you meet. So be very careful of your presence and how it affects those you are interacting with. Crime is very low in Cuba – almost non-existent – because of the careful surveillance and constant control of people’s behaviors. While in Cuba, be respectful of the fact that there are many questions that the locals are not able to answer (by law) and which you really should not be asking (also by law) and no one should flaunt their freedom, money or possessions in front of others who do not have access. Downplay your affluence and don’t act either rich or spoiled. It will only ruin your trip and isolate you from your potential friends and experiences. It may also make you a target for manipulation. Be smart and considerate when you interact with others. 

CUBA 2014: Getting Situated

                 Upon arrival in Cuba, I began to locate people with whom to practice my Spanish. At first, I found that many of the hotel employees, workers at museums, etc. would ignore me and just say something simple in English, if they said anything at all. Toward the end of the first day, I asked a fellow student from Puerto Rico about this. I thought that perhaps my enunciation was poor or that I was speaking badly (accent, improper grammar, etc.). She assured me that everyone was doing it to her as well and she did not understand. She also affirmed that I was speaking clearly and understandably, and it must be a cultural thing.

I decided rather than to revert to English, to simply keep trying. So I talked to everyone I could and after a day or two, they started to warm up and smile, even telling me that I was doing a good job with my Spanish and talking back to me in Spanish. I think that this is an artifact of the tourism industry here – probably, they have been treated poorly by tourists, are not used to tourists actually speaking to them rather than complaining or telling them what to do. It is kind of like living somewhere touristy – like the Florida Keys – and having to deal with strangers all the time, most of whom do not care about you at all. So I learned that being considerate and genuine, as well as persistent, was the key to interacting with the locals.

                After that, I talked to everyone and made many friends. I learned and used more Spanish in my week in Cuba than I have before, even when I travelled to Mexico. I found it refreshing that so many people would speak slowly to me because they knew that I was learning and that they would actually ask me questions and answer mine in a way that was warm and open. I really fell in love with the people – they just seem so warm and friendly, especially once they found out that I am American. They are very used to meeting Canadians (Cuba is the vacation secret of Canadians, especially French speaking Canadians) but many had never met someone from the USA or at least, not in a while. Many had a friend or family member who “moved” to the US, but because of the embargo, it is rare to have visitors come over from the US.

                There were many misconceptions that the Cuban people had of us, and perhaps some that I had of them. For one, Cubans are very friendly to the US and look hopefully toward Obama to lift the “Blockade” (which we call the embargo). They do not think of themselves as communists, and although they do not enjoy all of the freedoms that we enjoy, they find very intelligently coded ways to express their opinions and feelings. They are very politically minded and well educated – one problem with the quality of life in Cuba is the government restricted salary – but the educational system is pretty exceptional. At the same time, like many of our neighbors, the Cuban people tend to think that we are all rich (which is understandable, since the aforementioned salary is equivalent to $10 USD per month). This may be exacerbated by the fact that only the more affluent are able to travel. It was hard to explain that teachers in the United States really do not make that much money considering how expensive it is to live here and that there is high unemployment and underemployment in the United States, as well. It sounds pretty empty when you hear yourself trying to explain this to someone who makes less in a month than you do in an hour.

                The food was actually a pleasant surprise. I ate very well in Cuba. Images follow, but in a nutshell, lots of fish, lobster, beefsteaks, beans and rice, salads, tropical fruits and great coffee, depending on where you get it. Of course, tourists also have access to a steady supply of alcohol. Since I don’t drink often, I got sticker shock over a soda, which cost much more than a beer or mixed drink. Because of the dual economy (tourists are charged with a different price and use different currency than locals) everything except alcohol is very similar in price to the US. I would equate it to Las Vegas type prices. Very variable and don’t expect to save money or operate on a shoestring budget without going into local neighborhoods and trying out the non-tourist spots (which I strongly suggest and hope to do more of in the future). 

Above are images of food selections in Cuba. The center is the breakfast in Hotel Vedado, the top picture and bottom picture are from Artechef, the culinary institute that we visited as part of our educational program. All delicious.